Irrigation Shut Down
GrassMasters irrigation shutdown service will ensure that your pipes are properly blown out & your system doesn’t get freeze damage through the winter.
The leaves started changing color and the temperatures are cooling and it’s time to think about shutting down your irrigation system and preparing it for the cold winter months ahead.
Something you want to consider when shutting down your system is whether or not you are having your lawn renovated this fall with aeration and over-seeding. If you are, you will want to keep your system running through October to ensure the seedlings are getting sufficient water during the early stages of germination.
GrassMasters recommends having your system shut down by the first week of November so that your system is winterized before the overnight temperatures get below 32° and we get a hard freeze.
Freeze damage to your system can cause pipes to burst and heads & valves to break. Repairs to the system can be expensive depending on how many areas of the system were damaged and if the backflow device is damaged. The repair costs can add up and range from $250-$1,000. GrassMasters experienced technicians will be sure that you’re system is winterized properly year after year.
GrassMasters Irrigation Shutdown Service Includes:
- Turn off the main water line in the basement.
- Blow out the backflow and the entire irrigation system using a commercial compressor with 180 psi to ensure that no water is remaining in any pipes, valves, heads or the backflow device.
- Ensure that valves in the bottom of the backflow device will remain opened ¼ of a turn to allow for expansion and retraction with the fluctuation of temperatures and the release of any condensation that occurs with moisture in the air.
Irrigation Winterization Process:
You will need to be home in order for the technician to get to the main water line (usually in the basement) and the control timer (usually in the garage). We also encourage you to walk the system with the technician to discuss needed repairs that can be done during the shutdown, or put on the schedule to be completed during the spring startup.
PLAN AND DETAILS
|Spring:||During spring, fertilize and water your trees so they grow strong and healthy in the summer. It’s a bad idea to prune most trees in the spring because they are actively growing branches, buds and leaves. However, it’s a good time to plant new trees, so do your shopping early so your tree is in the ground for the heavy spring growing period.|
|Summer:||In the summer, you should mostly leave your trees alone. Only conduct minor trimming or hazard removal if required. Unusually dry weather may require some extra watering, but if you water your grass regularly, your trees should be fine too.|
|Fall:||Usually, trees go into their dormant phase in the fall season. This is the time to do major pruning and trimming to prepare the tree for next year. Remove dead and diseased branches, trim the top and sides for access to sunlight and for shape and generally complete any work that requires more than a few snips.|
|Winter:||You can leave your trees alone during the winter. Protect them against the cold and snow if necessary. Use the winter to fell any trees that are dead, dying or may damage your home. However, note that winter is actually the best time to prune your trees. Arborists are also less busy, which may lead to lower prices.|
Pruning the tips of the branches every year on a lilac will cut off next year’s flower buds. Wait to renewal prune until after your lilacs bloom so you don’t cut off flower buds, removing the oldest branches to allow new young growth to form. An old overgrown lilac can be cut off at the ground and allowed to start over, but then may not bloom for a few years. What holds true for lilacs does not hold true for all flowering shrubs. Flower buds on roses and potentillas are formed on new growth, so pruning will not discourage their flowering.
It is better to plant shrubs and trees that will not outgrow their space. But renewal pruning or removing entire older stems and branches can control their size. Or you can even cut shrubs off completely at ground level to rejuvenate them.
Yes, recent research has shown the healing advantage of pruning branches exactly at the growth collar (a swelling of the union of the branch and the trunk). Do not leave a stub where decay, insects, and disease can enter. When shortening shoots, cut just above a growth bud facing outward from the tree or shrub. If you make cuts to an inward-turning bud, the new growth will eventually cross and rub other branches.
The latest thinking is that tree wound dressings are not needed on pruning cuts. Wounds will close by a natural callus with exposure to air.